THE BEAUTY OF BILBAO

As my birthday usually falls in the school holidays, this was a great opportunity to get away for a few days in the week, and not necessarily for a long weekend. With February being a cold mistress of a month back home, we started to research warmer climes within Europe. I'd like to point out at this juncture that, apart from the basics such as prices and availability/suitability of attractions, we don't delve too much into where we are going in terms of photos and social media content, because we like the element of surprise. We want to explore and discover things we feel like we haven't seen before.

Our criteria was based on a few key points:

• Somewhere that would be easy to navigate in the three days that we had available

• A city that we could fly to directly from a London airport at sensible times

• Weather that would afford more sunshine than the UK

• Accommodation, activity/ excursion and food and drink costs that weren't vastly expensive

• A well-renowned and vibrant food and drinks scene

• An old town that allowed us to wander and wonder

And so it was Bilbao, nestled snuggly in Spain's Basque country, that seemingly ticked all of our boxes. Having sampled and loved the more well-trodden paths of Barcelona, Madrid, Ibiza and Marbella, we were seeking something a little different in Spain that neither of us had hitherto experienced.

We have a passion for art, so the Guggenheim Museum was always going to feature on our 'must' visit list. In addition to that we discovered that Casco Viejo (the old town), the River Market, funicular/cable car line, Basilica Church and San Mamés Stadium (home of Athletic Bilbao football club) were also well-recommended, and would provide a balanced combination that encompassed our interests.

Although this might not appear to be a hugely comprehensive list, we factored into this the fact that, like many people, leisurely exploring without the pressure of having an excessively packed schedule, would enable us to be flexible should we stumble across anything to pique our intrigue along the way. On this trip - and we expected/ hoped for this - that 'anything' were the numerous 'pinxto' (tapas) bars that we encountered!!

ACCOMODATION

Although there are numerous self catering options available in Bilbao, we like to stay in mid-price hotels with breakfast included (a penchant for grub will already be a theme that you'll have observed!). We also favour accommodation located in areas close to the attractions we aim to visit, so on this occasion the old town was the preferred area.

The NYX Hotel, by Leonardo, is perfectly positioned on the banks of the Nervión River, a twenty minute stroll from the Guggenheim, a mere walk over the bridge outside and into the more modernised Abando District and within the parameter of the historic old town. Furthermore, there is a taxi rank on the opposite side of the road which made for a very easy and smooth fifteen minute return journey to the airport (twenty eight euros). I'd like to mention that the breakfast here was outstanding. Essentially a buffet that you can return to as many times as you please, these kind of hotels are common but this one more than adequately set us up for the day ahead. Admittedly, one of our principle objectives was to sample pinxtos, so l didn't exceed a bowl of fruit and the equivalent of a medium-sized cooked breakfast each morning. But, whereas some Spanish hotels we've experienced offer cold meats, bread, cheese, cereals and limited fruit options, NYX had a veritable banquet presented daily, with variations each day on the cooked breakfast, pastries, fruit and bread options seated in pleasant and spacious furnishings, slap bang in the city's mixer. Our room

was well equipped with a fully functioning shower room (the pressure of the shower was a joy to behold), blackout curtains and a more than comfortable bed. Our view was superb, right across the river and into Abando, and for one hundred pounds per night inclusive of breakfast, was very well priced. As well as this, the staff were all exceptionally friendly and helpful regarding our early check in and any questions we had about the city. The NYX vibe and decor was firmly in the 'cool' category and we will definitely seek this chain out in any other cities we visit in our time ahead.

DAY ONE:

As aforementioned, allowing sufficient time to explore everything we wanted to comfortably was essential, so we chose an early departure from London Gatwick at 7.25 with easyJet (£55 each) and a late afternoon inbound flight to Gatwick at 18.15 with Vueling (£65 each).

With our desire to tuck into Bilbao's famous delights having reached fever pitch after our very early rise, we seamlessly checked into the NYX, took a short morning stroll into the old town and very quickly found the River Market (Erribera Merkatua). Game as badgers we bound our way in, eager to embark on our much-anticipated food odyssey. Disappointingly, though, our expectations were greeted by a different reality. While there were some pinxto outlets and a mixture of butchers, fish mongers and green grocers open for trading, there were an equal amount of vendors who were closed or since departed. The fare on offer and the surroundings in which they were being sold didn't really ignite our appetites and we beat a retreat back into the old town once we'd finished our perusal, without sampling anything.

Minutes later we found ourselves in the neoclassical style Plaza Nueva, somewhere that we'd pre-determined we wanted to visit due to all of the proprietors on the square here being pinxto bars. A pinxto, for those as yet unsure, is an appetizer or snack that usually consists of a small slice of bread that will have anything from squid, cod, chorizo, cheese and other typical Basque delicacies atop (as pictured below). Visually, they are very aesthetic due to the artisan manner in which they are made, with no shortage of attention to detail. As it happened, and unbeknown to us beforehand, there was a children's' festival with a show on a stage that had attracted a few hundred costumed parents and offspring being held in huge marquis in the middle of the square. This, coupled with the rain, meant that the bars were packed and vibrant, however we did manage to secure a table for two in Sorginzulo with a glass of lager and large rose, plus four pinxtos for a surprisingly inexpensive fifteen euros (you don't have to pay for the table). What an introduction to these Basque culinary delights! We did need the barmaid to communicate what the fare entailed but she was happy to do so, and the impression gathered is that this is something employees are accustomed to as this wasn't the only time an explanation was required, all of which were met with a smile.

The rain continued so there was no great urgency for us to move swiftly, even less so because each of the following bars all produced something different in terms of their variety of pinxtos, but invariably the prices of beer, wine and food remained reasonable. Our crawl that went from early afternoon into early evening took us to Sorginzulo, Gure Toki, La Olla de la Plaza Nueva and Iturriza Taberna, but all of the bars around the plaza looked inviting, atmospheric, comfortable and authentic. The step count wouldn't have breached more than a five hundred steps owing to the compact nature of the square and us being sedentary whilst over indulging!

Feeling the need to break out of the plaza and, despite having eaten our respective body weights in moorish pinxtos, there was still room in our bellies and fire in our hearts for more Basque cuisine! Another brief meander around the streets of the old town led us to Berton. A restaurant with more of an accent on the sit-down dinner than pinxtos, Berton winked at us and that was it! We opted against a meal in favour of a couple more pinxtos and a jug of sangria that was prepared on the spot with love and gusto. However, our gazes were aroused and then envious at the sight of a group of diners on the table in front of us tucking into a kilogram of steak, that they cooked to their liking over a griddle. What a tantilsing prospect this was, so much so that this wouldn't be our final sojourn to Berton! Now completely replete, the fact that the restaurant was only a five minute walk from our hotel, was a bonus.

DAY TWO:

Having tucked away breakfast and with Monday's less welcoming drizzle being replaced by the current bun at its finest, we thought to seize the moment with stroll along the river to the Guggenheim Museum. Completed in 1997, this glass and titanium clad space ship is predominantly a curving panelled structure, with surroundings that are dazzling and innovative. You could just marvel in the majesty of the museum itself from the outside, but for us with our love of art and being at one of the most famous art houses in the world, we had to enter for a sensibly priced twelve euros each. It wasn't overly busy which allowed us to move at our own pace in our own space, however the modern and contemporary art exhibited wasn't a match for the mighty museum it was housed in.

Sadly, the Pop Art exhibition was closed as a new exhibition was being installed, but among the highlights was Yayoi Kusama's 'Infinity Mirror Room'. The brevity of the experience didn't allow us to absorb it properly, though, due to a one in, one out situation that lasted a minute. That said, we didn't pay extra to see this, and you usually do have to pay to view the work of this revered artist. 'Rising Sea', a huge spectacle created by El Anatsui, fashioned from bottle caps that represented the impact of climate change on Africa's coastline, was also one of the more memorable pieces. We departed the Guggenheim slightly underwhelmed by the art but overwhelmed by the heat; it was now twenty two degrees and too hot for the clothes we were sporting. Via a pit stop at the hotel to drop off our now unnecessary winter coats, we decided to bask in the glorious conditions and set off on a mile walk along Gran Via de Don Diego Lopez de Haro, one of the city's main streets, to reach the San Mamés Stadium.

En route, a couple of pinto bars were frequented with refreshments duly purchased. One of the beauties of pinxtos is that I don't think we saw the same combination of ingredients repeated once. And while the composition of some would appear more conventional such as the miniature jamon y queso rolls pictured to the left, others are a more flamboyant mixture but equally rewarding for the adventurous palate. A semi- pinxto bar crawl was divine in the sunshine as we could capitalise on this by sitting outside. However, on the previous day in less welcoming weather, inside the pinxto bars of Plaza Nueva were not only a safe haven; the increased number of customers allowed us an insight into local conversations and interactions, with plenty of energy and bustle to satisfy one of our favourite pastimes of 'people watching'!

The holy grail of the San Mamés was eventually reached and it didn't disappoint. We completed a circuit of the stadium's periphery (inside stadium tours are available) and were left impressed by the modernity of the design and structure. To find a stadium so centrally located within a city is unusual, even more so one opened in 2013, and by all accounts the fiercely proud Athletic Club supporters generate a fervent atmosphere on a match

day.

Berton was revisited for dinner but this time, inspired by the diners from the previous evening, we simply had to indulge our appetites with the kilogram of steak. For a reasonable forty five euros we certainly weren't disappointed! Cutting off small pieces and sizzling them to our preference transpired to be a delicious way to consume dinner, thoroughly likeable and highly recommended!

DAY THREE

Bilbao's funicular line was straight forward enough to find, a fifteen minute walk along the north side of the river, not far from the Guggenheim. Four euros for a return journey that lasted a few minutes seemed inexpensive, and actually transpired to be worth every euro cent and more! All of the sites could be seen from above, hemmed in by the surrounding mountains. Bathed in gorgeous spring like sun and fortified by fresh mountain air, the perspective was breathtaking with panoramic views across the city, beyond its boundaries and onto the coast and Bay of Biscay. The Guggenheim reflected back its golden shean and the scene, not engulfed by a plethora of towering skyscrapers, was a refreshing glimpse of a city not overrun by commercialism. Added to this, a 'Bilbao' sign photo could be taken with a splendid backdrop (and who doesn't like a big sign with the city's name you're in, in a cheesy photo?!).

With a few hours left until our late afternoon return flight, the final sight for us to check out was the Basilica Church of Begoña, the journey of which unfolded to be a decent way to bump up our step count and feel the burn during the ascent up what seemed numerous steps. You could, for sure, get an Uber or taxi if the work out doesn't appeal, but you'd miss some interesting neighbourhoods and architecture en route. Now, I previously stated that Bilbao is flat, which it largely is, however there are some higher points on the outskirts, which is where the Basillica is. Unfortunately for us, the Basilica had just closed for visitors (a little more research on this occasion would have avoided this scenario), but the sixteenth century gothic style church is nonetheless a grand, largely limestone building that, along with some new views, is well worth the effort. This also effectively marked the end of our time in the city but it's worth noting that, having returned to our hotel to collect our bags, I asked the receptionist if the now twenty five degree heat that was clearly displayed on the temperature board outside was unseasonable for Valentine's Day. She told me that it wasn't usually that warm (but wasn't unheard of), but because that point of the city was at a relatively low altitude, this accounted for the very pleasant February heat there!

THE BEAUTY OF BILBAO

Many of Bilbao's attributes will be easily identified in this blog: the quality of the food and drink, the abundance of pinxto bars and restaurants available, the friendliness and clearly distinguishable character of the people, and the variety of sights to see, not only in the old town but beyond and into the other districts. But underlying it all is Bilbao's simplicity. Aside from our taxis to and from the airport (both of which were easy, quick and affordable), we only used our legs. As 'steps' addicts and massively appreciative of cuisine, we were very pleased and pleasantly surprised by how walkable the city is. Virtually everything was in walking distance of anything else. Public transport in the form of a tram and metro line link

several of the main attractions but, once the weather had immeasurably improved by our second day, walking between destinations was a pleasure, be it through the old town or along the river which roughly divides the northern and southern halves of Bilbao. There are few inclines, other than our trek to the Basilica, so the city is excellent for the waistline and the pocket!